Washing Horse Rugs & Saddle Pads: Tips, Frequency, and Why It Matters
If your horse could vote on yard jobs, washing saddle pads and rugs would probably still be bottom of the list… right after pulling mud out of tail hair. But clean kit isn’t about looking neat for Instagram - it’s about comfort, skin health, and keeping your technical gear working the way it’s meant to.Below is a simple, practical routine that protects your horse’s back and extends the life of your rugs and pads.
Why washing rugs and pads properly matters
Dirty rugs and saddle pads don’t just smell “horsey” - they can actively cause problems. Sweat, bacteria, grime, and even detergent residue can contribute to:
- Rubs and pressure sores (especially at the wither, shoulder, and girth line)
- Skin irritation and itchiness
- Poor coat condition and scurf build-up
- Reduced breathability (hello, sweaty patches)
- Waterproofing breakdown on turnout rugs over time
In short: cleaner kit = a happier back, fewer mystery rubs, and gear that performs better.
Saddle pads: a wash routine that protects the back
How often should you wash saddle pads?
- Regular work: ideally every 1-3 rides
- If that sounds intense, the easiest solution is to rotate multiple pads so you’re not stuck washing the same one daily.
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Best-practice steps (fast and effective)
- Brush off hair and dried mud first (it stops your washing machine becoming a fur museum).
- Use a horse-safe detergent and skip anything heavily perfumed.
- Wash at a moderate temperature according to the care label.
- Rinse well to reduce residue (a common cause of irritation).
- Dry fully before use - damp pads soften the skin and increase the chance of rubs.
Pro tip: If your pads are getting stiff or “crunchy,” that’s often a sign of product build-up. A thorough rinse (or an extra rinse cycle) usually fixes it.
Rugs: keep waterproofing, breathability, and fit intact
Horse rugs are basically technical clothing. Wash them the wrong way and you can strip waterproofing, reduce breathability, and shorten their lifespan.
Key steps for washing rugs
- Close straps and Velcro to prevent snagging and tearing in the drum
- Use a rug wash made for technical fabrics
- Avoid standard detergent and fabric softener (softener can coat fibres and interfere with performance)
- Re-proof when needed, especially after multiple washes or if water stops “beading” on the outer
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Quick check: After washing and drying, drip a little water on the rug.
- If it beads and rolls off, waterproofing is still doing its job.
- If it soaks in, it’s time to
re-proof.
Drying: the most overlooked (and most important) step
Washing is only half the job - drying is where most rug and pad problems start.
Do this:
- Air dry whenever possible (good airflow beats high heat)
- Dry completely before storage (damp = mildew + stink + material breakdown)
- Avoid intense direct heat (radiators, blasting heaters) which can damage membranes, glue, binding, and elastic
Make life easier: rotate clean kit
If you’re constantly caught out with a wet pad or a rug still drying, the easiest fix is having a small
rotation of essentials.
Stock up and rotate so there’s always a clean, dry option ready to go: Shop Rugs & Pads