The Ultimate Girth Buying Guide

Materials, shapes, use-cases, sizing & fit-so your horse stays comfy and your saddle stays put.

A well-chosen girth does three things:

  1. Keeps the saddle stable without cranking,
  2. Clears the elbow/soft tissue, and
  3. Spreads pressure across the sternum.The "best" girth depends on your horse's shape, your discipline, and where the girth sits naturally (the girth groove).

1) Quick fit rules (the non-negotiables)

  • Buckles high: Aim for buckles well above the elbow bulge (long girths) or clear of the elbow (short/dressage girths).
  • Elastic both ends: Spreads tension evenly and reduces twisting.
  • Neat, not tight: You should slide fingers under at rest; recheck after 10 minutes (horses "inflate").
  • Match the girth to the groove: Forward girth grooves usually need anatomic/crescent shapes; neutral grooves often go well in straight/contour girths.

2) Shapes & when to use them

Straight / Contour

What it is: Even width with gentle shaping.
Best for: Horses with a neutral girth groove and generous elbow clearance; everyday flatwork or jumping.
Watch out: Can crowd the elbow on big-shouldered or forward-girth horses. 

Shop Straight/Contour Girths 

Anatomic / Ergonomic (asymmetric, offset)

What it is: Cut-back behind the elbow with a wider sternum pad and offset buckles.
Best for: Forward girth groove, big shoulders, round barrels; helps keep the saddle from being dragged forward.
Watch out: Too-narrow cut-outs can still pinch if sized small.

Shop Anatomic Girths 

Stud Guard / Belly Guard

What it is: Broad protective shield with a central clip/ring.
Best for: Show jumping/XC with studs; horses that tuck tightly and risk striking the belly.
Watch out: Must be long enough and flexible so the shield sits flat under the sternum (not jammed).

Shop Stud Guard Girths 

Short / Dressage (for monoflap or dressage saddles)

What it is: Buckles sit lower on the billets; often anatomic to clear the elbow.
Best for: Dressage/monoflap setups needing close contact.
Watch out: If buckles sit level with the elbow = rub risk; adjust length.

Shop Dressage Girths 

3) Materials that matter

Shop Sheepskin Girths • Leather Girths 

4) Choose by horse shape & discipline (fast picker)

  • Forward girth groove + big shoulders → Anatomic or crescent; elastic both ends; possibly grippy liner. Shop: Anatomic/Crescent
  • Round cob / mutton wither → Crescent or generous anatomic; wide sternum pad; consider breastplate for jumping. Shop: Crescent / Wide-sternum
  • Lean TB / high wither → Straight or mild anatomic with deeper sternum pad; ensure wither clearance and saddle balance. Shop: Straight/Contour
  • Jumping/XC with studs → Stud guard; keep it light and flexible; buckles high. Shop: Stud Guards
  • Dressage/monoflap → Short anatomic with soft edges and big buckle guards; length so buckles clear the elbow. Shop: Dressage Girths

5) Sizing: how long should my girth be?

Long girths (GP/Jump)

  1. Saddle on; billets hanging.
  2. Measure from the 2nd hole of the left billet, under the barrel, to the 2nd hole of the right billet.
  3. Choose the nearest size that places buckles mid-range and above the elbow. 

Typical long-girth size guide (horse dependent)

  • 115-120 cm: petite horses/large ponies
  • 125-130 cm: average TB/WB types
  • 135-145 cm: large/round barrels 

Shop our Long Girths 

Short girths (Dressage/Monoflap)

  1. Measure distance between the bottom holes of the billets on each side.
  2. Pick a girth that places buckles above the elbow but below the bottom of the sweat flap-usually in the upper third of the girth area. 

Typical short-girth size guide

  • 55-60 cm: small horses/large ponies
  • 65-70 cm: average horses
  • 75-85 cm: big warmbloods/round types

Find your Dressage Girth 
Note: Different brands measure differently (end-to-end vs. buckle-to-buckle). Always check each product's size notes. 

6) Fitting checklist (save/screenshot)

  • Buckles clear the elbow (no wrinkled skin).
  • Elastic at both ends; even holes each side.
  • Centre sits flat on sternum; no hard ridges.
  • Girth shape matches the girth groove (anatomic/crescent if forward).
  • Pad lies flat; saddle balance level; recheck after 10 minutes. 

7) Troubleshooting: problems → solutions

Shop Sheepskin Liners • Spacer-Mesh Pads • Both-Ended Elastic Girths 

8) Care that extends lifespan

  • Rinse sweat and grit after every ride.
  • Wash sheepskin with sheepskin detergent; air-dry, then fluff.
  • Check elastic for "elephant skin" or uneven stretch; replace early.
  • Inspect stitching at buckle ends monthly.

Shop Care & Cleaners 

9) FAQs

Do anatomic girths fit every horse?

No-if your horse has a neutral groove and open elbow, a straight/contour girth can be comfier and cheaper.

Elastic both ends or one?

Both ends for even tension and less torque-especially on round types.

Stud guards: necessary?

Only if you jump with studs or your horse tucks tight. Pick lighter, flexible shields; ensure it lies flat.

Best choice for sensitive skin?

Soft leather or sheepskin-lined (kept very clean). Consider spacer-mesh pads in summer.

My horse is girthy-hardware or fit?

Often both. Confirm buckle height and edge softness, then reassess saddle balance and rule out ulcers/skin issues. 

Bottom line

Pick the simplest shape that matches your horse's girth groove, keep buckles high, choose both-ended elastic, and maintain clean, breathable contact. Your reward is a steady saddle, free shoulders, and a happier horse.

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