Young Horse Essentials: Tack Choices for Starting Under Saddle

Simple, kind, and adaptable gear for a confident start.

Starting a youngster is 80% preparation and 20% "firsts." The right tack keeps sessions clear and comfortable while your horse learns balance, steering, and confidence. Below is a practical kit list with fitting tips, what to skip, and how to scale the setup as training progresses.

Principles to ride by

1. Keep it simple. Choose the least amount of tack that gives you clarity and stability.
2. Fit is welfare. A kind bit and a balanced saddle beat any "training aid." 
3. Assume change. Young backs and shoulders develop fast-pick adjustable, check fit often. 
4. Progressive layers. Add items only when a clear need appears (e.g., breastplate for saddle slip).

The core kit (and why)

1. Headcollar + Lunge Cavesson 

• Use for: groundwork, long-lining, early lunging without pulling on the mouth.
• Fit tips: Snug enough not to spin; noseband on the bony nasal bridge, not on soft cartilage.
• Why it matters: Protects the mouth while you teach voice commands and straightness.

2. Bridle with a Plain Cavesson 

• Bit choice: Start with a smooth snaffle that suits the mouth: usually a double-jointed (lozenge) or anatomical single-joint. Avoid twists/ports.
• Size & fit:
  • Width: ~5-7 mm clearance past each lip corner (no pinching).
  • Height: 1-2 tiny "wrinkles" at the corner of the mouth, then reassess after a few rides-many youngsters prefer slightly lower once they relax.
  • Cavesson: two fingers upright at the front; avoid flashes/drop initially.
• Reins: Grippy rubber with stops-easier for consistent hand position.

3. Saddle (light, balanced, adjustable where possible) 

• Tree: A quality synthetic/polymer or modern wood tree with changeable gullet is ideal for a back that will change monthly.
• Panels: Wool-flocked or high-quality foam that can be adjusted/reflocked as muscles develop.
• Style: General Purpose or close-contact jump for most; a simple dressage saddle if that's the pathway. Prioritise a level seat that lets you stay quiet-not a deep, restrictive block.
• Fit checks:
  • Spine and wither clearance front-to-back.
  • Even panel contact (no rocking/bridging).
  • Shoulder freedom-tree points not jamming the scapulae.
  • Recheck after 10-12 sessions and every 6-8 weeks during growth spurts.

4. Girth 

• Type: Soft, contour or anatomic girth with elastic at both ends for even tension.
• Fit: Two to three holes showing each side; no wrinkling behind the elbows; check hair after work for rubs.
• Material: Smooth leather or quality synthetic that wipes clean (young horses sweat!).

5. Saddle Pad

• Keep it simple: One breathable, non-bulk pad that doesn't alter fit.
• No shims/fleece unless a fitter recommends them; extra fluff can destabilise a green horse.

6. Safety Stirrups

• Why: First spooks are unpredictable. A quick-release design (side-opening or peacock/covered-arm style) reduces risk.
• Treads: Decent grip; check they're not razor-sharp.

7. Protective Boots 

• Front brushing boots (and overreach boots if the horse forges).
• Fit: Snug but you should slide a finger under; even pressure, no edges digging in.

Useful extras (add when needed)

• Breastplate (simple 3-point or 5-point) if the saddle creeps back on round types. Don't use it to hide poor saddle balance.
• Neck strap or grab strap for rider stability-encourages elastic elbows and prevents "catching" the mouth.
• Roller + surcingle for early long-lining, if you prefer that stage before a saddle.
• Single elastic side-reins for brief, supervised use on the cavesson (not bit) to explain straightness-but only after the horse understands forward and voice commands. Skip gadgets if in doubt. 

What to avoid early on 

• Tight flash/figure-eight nosebands (can mute feedback you need).
• Severe or novelty bits "for control." Control comes from rhythm and lines, not hardware.
• Bulky half pads that change saddle balance.
• Standing martingales for first rides-restricts natural "find your balance" neck use.

First-month progression (30-40 minute sessions, 4-5×/week)

Note: each horse is different and will need different training structures or timelines, but this guide is just a guideline to use as an idea.

Week 1: Ground rules 

• In-hand leading, halt, back, yielding shoulders/quarters from light touches.
• Lunge in cavesson: 10-15 minutes, big circles, calm voice cues.
• Introduce roller or saddle at the walk; girth gradually; short sessions.

Week 2: Long-lining & first mounting block work

• Straight lines and gentle corners on two lines; transitions walk-halt-walk.
• Saddle on for most sessions; flap desensitising; stirrups down to bump gently.
• Lean over at the block, leg pressure "on/off," reward the stand.

Week 3: First sits & steering

• Quiet rider up, neck strap on. Walk off with a ground person.
• Big shapes: 20-m circles, changes of rein; halt-walk transitions from voice + seat.
• 5-8 minutes ridden total, then long-rein to finish.

Week 4: Add trot moments & rhythm

• Jog-trot lines on both reins; ride from leg to soft outside rein.
• Introduce gentle poles in hand or on the lunge for proprioception.
• Keep rides short, interspersed with walking hacks if safe.

Fit & comfort checkpoints (every session)

• Before: Run fingers under the browband, noseband, and girth; check pad lies flat.
• After: Lift the pad and look for even sweat; feel along the back for hot spots.
• Behaviour tells you the truth: tail swish, grinding, crooked stop = revisit fit.

Quick sizing cheat sheet

• Bit width: Lip-to-lip + 5-7 mm each side (less for fixed cheeks).
• Girth length: With correct saddle/girth straps, buckles should sit above the elbow bulge.
• Bridle: Avoid "ponying up" a cob by punching extra holes-choose the size that places buckles near the mid-range.

Budget-smart picks

1. Adjustable-gullet GP saddle you can refit through the first year.
2. Plain cavesson bridle with quality hardware; upgrade reins first (grip = confidence).
3. One good girth + one good pad you keep spotless.
4. Safety stirrups + brushing boots-small cost, big peace of mind.

FAQs

Q: My youngster mouths the bit constantly-normal? 
A: Exploration is normal. If it escalates to evasion (tongue over/behind), check bit size/height, then teeth and saddle balance before changing designs.

Q: Saddle slips to the left.
A: Common with weak toplines. First, verify fit and rider symmetry; then consider a simple breastplate. Add straightness exercises (long-lining, transitions on straight lines).

Q: When to add a martingale?
A: Only if the horse consistently inverts in a way that compromises safety after balance improves. Fit loosely and review with your coach/fitter.

The takeaway

Start light, fit well, and let the horse learn through rhythm and straight lines. Choose adjustable, breathable, non-restrictive tack; add only what solves a real problem. Comfort today builds confidence tomorrow.