Pelham Bits

A Pelham is a single-mouthpiece bit with two reins - one acting on the snaffle ring at the mouthpiece, the other on a shanked curb ring with a chain under the chin. It combines snaffle and curb action in one bit, which is why it's often used as an alternative to a full double bridle for horses that need more control without the complexity of two separate bits.

A Pelham suits a horse that gets strong over fences or in open country and needs more stopping power than a snaffle alone, but where the rider doesn't want to switch to a full double bridle. It's a common choice for hunting, eventing cross-country and showing classes that allow it. If you're considering one, talk to your trainer first - a Pelham asks more of the horse's mouth than a snaffle and isn't the right answer to every contact problem.

Measure the width of your horse's mouth at the corners, where the bit sits. Most horses fall between 12.5cm and 13.5cm (5"-5.5"); ponies usually take 11.5cm or smaller. The bit should sit with about 5mm clear on each side of the mouth - not pinching, not loose enough to slide. Shank length on a Pelham varies from short (gentler) to long (more leverage); start short and only move longer if you need more.

A snaffle has a single rein and acts only on the corners of the mouth. A double bridle uses two separate bits (a bradoon and a Weymouth) for independent snaffle and curb action. A Pelham combines those two actions in one mouthpiece using two reins, which makes it simpler than a double but harsher than a snaffle. A kimblewick sits between a snaffle and a Pelham, with curb action but no shank to amplify it.

We stock Pelhams from Sprenger, Trust Equestrian and Metalab across stainless, sweet iron and rubber-coated mouthpieces. Standard, jointed and ported mouthpieces are all available depending on which action your horse responds to.

Rinse the bit in warm water after every ride to clear saliva and feed, then dry it before hanging up. The curb chain should also be wiped down so it doesn't pinch when it dries with mud or grit on it. Stainless bits don't need anything more; sweet iron is meant to develop a patina and shouldn't be polished aggressively; rubber-coated bits should be checked regularly for wear and replaced before the rubber splits.

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